Lilies are fairly easy to grow. Today's lilies are beautiful, vigorous, and come in an amazing array of colors, shapes and heights.

Lilies are most effectively planted in groups of three or more, leaving at least 30-50 cm (12-18 in.) between the bulbs. Remember, they will soon multiply and need this additional space. Plant with the roots downward and the scales upward, cover with soil, and firm well to prevent the formation of air pockets in which the tiny rootlets can become dry.

Water well. Two or three additional good soakings prior to freeze up will ensure good root growth. The better established the bulb is prior to freeze up, the better it will withstand the rigors of a long, cold winter. Label your lilies after planting. Not only will you know where to expect them in the spring, but you'll know what they're called when an admiring friend or neighbor inquires.

Mulching: Mulching lilies with a few inches of grass clippings or compost is a useful practice. Mulches conserve moisture, keep soil cool, and prevent weed seed germination. In winter, mulches moderate temperature fluctuations (freezing and thawing) and consequent soil heaving which severs roots from bulbs. Mulches also tend to slightly delay the emergence of the lilies in the spring, which could mean the difference between frost-damaged and healthy bulbs.

Fertilizer: Potassium is seldom needed in prairie soils, but lilies require both nitrogen and phosphorus and are known as "heavy feeders." Incorporating 11-48-0 or 16-20-0 fertilizer into the soil at planting time, and again each spring, at the rate of one or two ounces per 10 square feet should be sufficient. The use of fresh manure is NOT recommended.

Diseases: Disease-free bulbs, good drainage, good air circulation, and good housekeeping will go a long way to prevent disease problems. Good housekeeping means cleaning up and removing the dead foliage in the fall. Most problems associated with lilies are fungal-related, botrytis being the most common disease associated with lilies on the prairies. Symptoms are root rot and browning of stems and leaves. Soaking bulbs in a benlate solution prior to planting will control botrytis. Most reputable lily growers will have already done this for you.

Care: Summer care includes weeding, regular and deep watering (to the depth of the bulbs and roots), and removal of faded flowers (unless you are keen to experiment with growing your own lilies from seed). Remove only the flowering portion of the stalk, not the leaves. Like tulips and other flowering bulbs, lilies need all their stems and leaves to manufacture food for the next year's flowers.

Lilies will usually thrive for years in the same spot, especially if well fertilized, but when spindly, short stems indicate crowding, the clumps should be lifted, carefully pulled apart, and the divisions planted elsewhere. If you must replant in the same spot, replace or reinforce the soil first with additional fertilizer or organic material. Besides natural division, lilies can also be propagated or increased by stem bulblets, aerial bulbils, scales and seed.

Courtesy U of S Horticultural Extension.

Fall is the time to write for catalogues, choose varieties, and prepare your lily beds. Gone are the days when only a few types of orange speckled "tiger" lilies were available to prairie gardeners. Today's lilies are beautiful, vigorous, and come in an amazing array of colors, shapes and heights. They're easy to grow and require little special care.

Lily Classification:

Most lilies grown in the prairie provinces are termed "Asiatic hybrids" because the species from which they were derived originated in Asia. They are cold-hardy, usually flower in July, have the broadest range of colors of any group of lilies, and are easy to grow. Most are unscented.

Asiatics are further classified by the arrangement of their flowers.

Class A:contains all the up-facing flowered varieties. They are very showy in the garden and make attractive cut flowers as well, but have a shorter flowering season than other classes.

Class B:are the out-facing Asiatic lilies. These carry more flowers per stem and thus provide a longer season of color. They also make good cut flowers.

Class C:are the pendant or downfacing lilies. They carry the most flowers of all, but may not have the same initial impact. Because of their grace and beauty, the pendant lilies are a valuable addition to the perennial border, especially when massed in groups.

Within these major groupings, lilies are also classified as to their season of bloom. Thus gardeners can find varieties described in catalogues as early, intermediate, mid-season (July), late season, and season closers.

Tips on Lily Growing:

Timing:Lilies are best planted in late October. Although the bulbs are never truly dormant, they do go through a resting period at that time, when top growth has died down, and bulbs can be lifted, sorted, shipped and replanted.

Drainage: Good drainage is probably the most important single factor in successful lily growing. They will not tolerate locations where water collects after a rain or where melt water remains in the spring. Gardeners can improve drainage, as well as a heavy soil structure, by building raised beds with the addition of coarse sand and peat moss. Digging the soil to a depth of 30-50 cm. (12-18 in.) and incorporating humus and compost plus a little bonemeal is also helpful.

Planting: Lilies do best in a sunny location, although most will perform well given only afternoon sun. Planting depth will depend on both the size of the bulb and the soil type. Small bulbs should have 7.5-10 cm (3-4 in.) of soil above them, larger bulbs 10-15 cm (4-6 in.). In light, sandy soil this can be increased slightly, while in heavy clay soils, depth can be shallower. In windy locations plant bulbs deeper to provide better anchorage.